Wednesday, April 28, 2010

La Blanquilla to Los Roques


Thursday 21st August
At 9:30 the island of Orchilla was just visible off the port side, we kept a good distance away as Orchilla is a military base, and boats are not allowed closer than 5 miles. As the first of the islands of Los Roques crept into view on the horizon we still had heavy cloud cover, not the best way to approach what are reputed to be some of the most beautiful islands, OH well, hopefully we’ll stay a few days and the weather will brighten up.
Los Roques Archipelago National Park was created in 1972 to protect a marine ecosystem of exceptional natural beauty and ecological value. Coral reefs, mangroves and grassy seabeds dominate the area. Los Roques has the reputation of being one of the most beautiful natural areas of Venezuela. We were all very excited at the prospect of experiencing these fabulous islands.

I read that the coral reefs here host some of the most beautiful underwater flora and fauna throughout the Caribbean. The park boasts exceptionally beautiful beaches of powdery white sand and crystal clear water, making it a snorkeling, sailing and fishing paradise.

Los Roques harbors around 60 species of corals, 200 species of crustaceans, 140 species of mollusks, 45 species of echinoderms, 60 species of sponges, and 280 species of fish. In addition there are 92 species of birds, which can be seen in the park, 50 of which are migratory, also 4 globally endangered species of sea turtles nest here.

We motored around to the west side of El Gran Roque, the largest island of the group, and dropped anchor in the bay outside the town. After lunch Bob and Daniela went ashore to visit all the required officials, coast guard, Inparques, National Guard,
and the Los Roques Authority, in that order, they are very specific with their instructions as to how one is required to check in. Its quite expensive here, in comparison to other islands. They charge $2 per foot for the vessel, and $12 per person. You are only allowed to stay 15 days, but you can extend that to another 15 days with special permission.

A Pelican landed on the pulpit, and I got some great shots before shooing him off, I don’t like bird poop on the decks, and Pelicans are like geese they poop all the time.
Looking over the side of the boat into the water I could see clear to the ocean bed, which was littered with hundreds of beautiful cushion starfish.

When Bob and Danni returned we motored around to a different island. It was slow going navigating our way through the shallow water and between reefs, I had to stand on the bow to direct Bob through avoiding the corals and shallow spots, it was a slow and precarious passage. We finally dropped anchor off the beach and were immediately invaded by mosquito's; swarms of them, retreating inside we locked up the boat and put the air con on.
I baked the red snapper for dinner and discovered that there is indeed an art to filleting a fish, an art I don’t seem to possess. The snapper had great flavor, being so fresh, but there were a lot of bones.

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