Ashore in Kuna territory

Monday 3^rd January 2011

We took the dinghy ashore to Isla Pinos, or Tupbak, which is the Kuna name for the island.  We were met on the dock by Horace one of the local Kuna guide’s, who happily accepted the pile of magazines we had taken with us; a fellow cruiser in the bay had told us that Horace wanted magazines.

We were cordially escorted to the Chief’s hut, where we requested and were granted permission to look around the village.  Horace took us first to see his home, which consisted of 2 humble thatched bamboo walled huts, a cooking hut, and a sleeping hut.  Horace’s wife was busy hanging out the washing and didn’t seem very pleased to see us, she was dressed in full traditional Kuna attire, colorful molas, and the tight fitting beaded calf adornments which are meant to draw attention to the woman’s slender legs, Bob said they looked like perfect blood clot causing material!  Kuna women are instantly recognizable by their colorful costumes adorned with molas in bright primary colors.

The Kuna people are fierce defenders of tribal tradition, protecting an indigenous culture, that is one of the most intact and colorful in the New World

I asked Horace if his wife would mind if I took a photograph of her, but she immediately disappeared into the hut, so I took that as a no.

We were then taken inland to the river where the recent heavy rains had collapsed the hillside, the landslide had blocked the river cutting off the fresh water to the village, Horace was obviously very upset and concerned about this, I couldn’t help but wonder why the men in the village weren’t there digging to clear the blockage!

Danni and I had brought candy for the Kuna children, and I asked Horace if it was OK for me to give it to them, he smiled and took the candy from my hand putting it in his pocket!  Fortunately I hadn’t shown him all the candy we brought so I was able to hand out what I had left to some of the children in the village. 

I noticed that all the women quickly disappeared into their huts as we passed, but the children were not camera shy and happily posed for photographs.

One of the local men, David, who had come over to Daisy when we arrived yesterday came over to say hello, and offered to show us his home; we walked through an arch constructed of bamboo and decorated with flowers and a Happy New Year sign, that David proudly announced he had made in celebration of the New Year. 

David’s home was another couple of thatched bamboo walled constructions, one for sleeping and one for cooking, he introduced us to his wife and little girl and asked whether I would take photographs and print them out for him, I agreed, and quietly hoped that my printer on board was still working.  As we left the village I could feel eyes on us all around, peering out from between the bamboo walled huts.

The island is so isolated that at night without the moon it is totally black.  The Kuna do not have electricity, so there was no light from the village.  It was a strange feeling standing on deck in total and complete darkness, there was absolutely no light at all, quite eerie!