Mola’s, Eagle Ray's & Handmade Jewelry

Thursday 6^th January

Sitting on deck this morning we saw an eagle ray leap from the water right by the side of us, and then again a little further away.  This area is supposed to be frequented by many eagle ray’s, I hope we get to see some when we’re snorkeling.

Eagle Ray swimming past Daisy

A few of the other sail boats left this morning, so it’s much quieter here now.  A couple of local Kuna came over in their dugout canoes offering fish and molas for sale.  We bought a beautiful mola for $40 from one couple that came over with their 2 grandchildren; I intend to frame  it when I get home.

The Kuna lady I bought the mola from

Molas are a world-renowned symbols of Kuna culture.  These oblong works of art are made using several layers of fabric in bright contrasting colors.  Patterns are cut into the separate layers, which are then stitched together along the curve of the cut, a process called reverse appliqué.  They traditionally use precise geometric patterns in vibrant colors. The designs will often include fish, turtles, butterflies, parrots or other creatures commonly found in the islands, some abstract designs can also be found.  The molas vary in price from around $15 to $80 depending upon the amount of work involved.

Katherine, from one of our neighboring boats came over to show us her selection of hand made jewelry, she makes everything from local materials, coconut shell, seeds and  Tagua nuts, also known as vegetable ivory.  The selection and quality of her work was truly amazing bearing in mind that she and her husband make everything on board their boat. Danni and I bought a necklace each and one for Nicolette.

Kathering showing us some of her handmade jewelry

Late morning we took the dinghy ashore to Green Island where we swam off the beach, played with a neighboring boats dogs, collected shells and took photographs.

We bought 3 fish from some local fishermen and barbequed them for lunch with chicken, langoustine and coconut rice, it was delicious.  I’ll really miss the fresh fish when I get home, it taste’s so much better straight out of the ocean.

Green Island

Wednesday 5^th January

We planned to motor the short distance over to the island of Aridup this morning, for some snorkeling.  We waited in Snug Harbor until 9:30 but as my vegetables still hadn’t arrived we decided to just go on.  The anchorage at Aridup was really rolly, and the sea choppy, I stayed on board while Bob and Danni took the dinghy over to the island.

The seabed was churned up from the rough water and the snorkeling wasn’t good, so we weighed anchor and set sail for Green Island (Kanlildup). 

We had a wonderful sail across; even I managed to enjoy it.  We had 15 – 20 knots of consistent wind and managed an averaged a speed of 9 knots, arriving at 4pm.

The anchorage at Green Island was perfect, calm with crystal clear water.  There were 12 other sail boats so it was a little crowded, but the islands all around us were absolutely picture perfect.

Beautiful San Blas

Taken while sailing past one of the islands, with the waves pounding the reefs in the background

Snug Harbor

Tuesday 4^th January

Before we left this morning we took the photographs I had taken and printed, over for Horace and David.  Horace seemed pleased with his picture, but David was apparently off up the mountain so we left the pictures with his father-in-law.

Bob and Danni with our guide Horace

We easily caught up with the 2 other boats that left the anchorage before us this morning, and sailed with them to Snug Harbor when we stayed for the night.

Navigating through the islands was a real challenge, there are so many reefs, but the waypoints in the Panama cruising guidebook were excellent, I wouldn’t have wanted to try it without the book.

Snug Harbor was a peaceful quite anchorage between a group of small islands, the water was still, but remained green and murky from the river.  Even before we had dropped anchor the Kuna men approached in their dugout canoes selling fish and molas.  One man was taking orders for vegetables, I asked for Yucca, tomatoes and bananas, I gave him $6 and he said he would bring them by in the morning.

Ashore in Kuna territory

Monday 3^rd January 2011

We took the dinghy ashore to Isla Pinos, or Tupbak, which is the Kuna name for the island.  We were met on the dock by Horace one of the local Kuna guide’s, who happily accepted the pile of magazines we had taken with us; a fellow cruiser in the bay had told us that Horace wanted magazines.

We were cordially escorted to the Chief’s hut, where we requested and were granted permission to look around the village.  Horace took us first to see his home, which consisted of 2 humble thatched bamboo walled huts, a cooking hut, and a sleeping hut.  Horace’s wife was busy hanging out the washing and didn’t seem very pleased to see us, she was dressed in full traditional Kuna attire, colorful molas, and the tight fitting beaded calf adornments which are meant to draw attention to the woman’s slender legs, Bob said they looked like perfect blood clot causing material!  Kuna women are instantly recognizable by their colorful costumes adorned with molas in bright primary colors.

The Kuna people are fierce defenders of tribal tradition, protecting an indigenous culture, that is one of the most intact and colorful in the New World

I asked Horace if his wife would mind if I took a photograph of her, but she immediately disappeared into the hut, so I took that as a no.

We were then taken inland to the river where the recent heavy rains had collapsed the hillside, the landslide had blocked the river cutting off the fresh water to the village, Horace was obviously very upset and concerned about this, I couldn’t help but wonder why the men in the village weren’t there digging to clear the blockage!

Danni and I had brought candy for the Kuna children, and I asked Horace if it was OK for me to give it to them, he smiled and took the candy from my hand putting it in his pocket!  Fortunately I hadn’t shown him all the candy we brought so I was able to hand out what I had left to some of the children in the village. 

I noticed that all the women quickly disappeared into their huts as we passed, but the children were not camera shy and happily posed for photographs.

One of the local men, David, who had come over to Daisy when we arrived yesterday came over to say hello, and offered to show us his home; we walked through an arch constructed of bamboo and decorated with flowers and a Happy New Year sign, that David proudly announced he had made in celebration of the New Year. 

David’s home was another couple of thatched bamboo walled constructions, one for sleeping and one for cooking, he introduced us to his wife and little girl and asked whether I would take photographs and print them out for him, I agreed, and quietly hoped that my printer on board was still working.  As we left the village I could feel eyes on us all around, peering out from between the bamboo walled huts.

The island is so isolated that at night without the moon it is totally black.  The Kuna do not have electricity, so there was no light from the village.  It was a strange feeling standing on deck in total and complete darkness, there was absolutely no light at all, quite eerie!

On Route to the San Blas Islands.

Saturday 1^st January 2011

Having made the decision to sail on through the night, it wasn’t long before the winds picked up and we were able to raise the sails.

We sped through the night averaging 8 – 9 knots of speed, with 20+ knots of wind.  The seas were big building to 4+ meter waves so the passage was a little rolly, but without the engine running it was blissfully quiet.  While sitting up on deck both Danni and I both got stung by bees.  Not something you would normally expect while miles out at sea.

I usually am not a great fan of night sailing, but between the bioluminescent streaks in our wake, and the incredible jeweled night sky above us, it seemed as though we were surrounded by iridescent lights. 

While I was on watch we must have passed close to a whale, as I noticed the sudden distinct aroma of whale breath, it’s a strong fishy scent; Unfortunately In the dark I was unable to see anything.

We had the water-maker running, and I was really looking forward to a shower. We had run our water supply dry in Cartagena and had been unable to make any water while we were there because the bay water was so filthy.

Boat life has really given me a chance to appreciate some of the simple things in life that I previously had taken for granted, like fresh water, and the ability to take a shower; it’s such a luxury.

It took us 24 hours to reach the San Blas Islands.  We arrived and 9:30am. Heavy rain clouds hovered threateningly over some of the islands and the mainland of Panama, we headed to Isla Pinos, the only island under a patch of blue sky.   I get such a thrill arriving at places I’ve never even heard of.

The sea was green and murky, and Daniela was disappointed, as she had been looking forward to swimming in crystal clear water, although she was quite happy not to swim once Bob told her about all the Crocodiles.

3:38pm Saturday January 1st 2011

At sea, and loving it, the sea is as flat as a mill pond, the breeze is deliciously cooling under the blisteringly hot sun, thank goodness for the bimini, and I’m picking up an Internet signal.  We have only 5 – 8 knots of true wind, and 10 -12 apparent, not enough to sail, but at least we’re not bouncing around.

The only land within sight are the San Bernado Islands.  We have decided to keep going through the night and should arrive in the San Blas Islands in the morning.

There is another boat sailing with us, which always makes me feel safer, although I really couldn’t be more comfortable right now, if only all passages were like this. I wish Niki, Scoop and Edi were still here with us.