Leaving Sorano we followed the secondary road until eventually joining the 478 to Chianciano Therme. The 'Terme' part of the name means Spa. We decided not to stop here as time was marching on and we wanted to get to Montepulciano in time for a late lunch. At 1,950 feet above sea level, this medieval hamlet is the highest hill town in Tuscany, it also has breathtaking views over the surrounding countryside. Built on a sloping, narrow limestone ridge in the heart of the Vino Nobile wine growing territory, Montepulciano is most famous for its wonderful Vino Nobile di Montepulciano made from the Sangiovese grapes, not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which is made in Abruzzo using the Montepulciano grape variety.
We innocently drove through the ancient narrow streets, and parked in the Hotel La Terrazza parking lot in the center of town, completely oblivious to the fact that you are supposed to have a special permit to drive here. We were lucky, we didn't get clamped, or ticketed (that we know of, of course a ticket could still arrive!).
Happy with our luck at finding a great parking space we headed out in search of the shops, and a restaurant. I turned off the main shopping road and wandered down a quiet little street where I discovered a true Tuscan gem, "II Restorante Borgobuio" owned and run by husband and wife, Elda (the chef) and Pier, the head waiter, tennor and restaurant entertainer...
This lovely, little restaurant created within an underground cave, part of the 500 cellars of Palace Venturi, is a joy to behold, with its vaulted ceilings, interesting antiques, saffron lighting and very friendly service, turned out to be one of the best restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of eating in. With Pavarotti at his glorious best belting it out over the sound system, and Pier joining in (quite well, I might add). All the tables were brimming with family's, couples, business people and locals, the atmosphere was both sophisticated but informal, with a warmth that made you feel as though you were eating in someone's home. Pier made a great fuss of "Angelina" (as he called Angie), and me "Heeter"!
The food was absolutely superb, I had an asparagus risotto, possibly the best thing I've ever eaten, and Angie had pasta with a scrumptious home made tomato sauce, all washed down with the most delicious wine, yummy, scrummy, I was fully indulging my love affair with Italian food and wine, as is evidenced by my expanding waistline! We took our time over lunch, and were put under no pressure to move on and free up the table, as is so often the case in many restaurants today. I really believe they would have let us stay all day, had we chosen to.
We would have happily stayed, for dinner too, but our itinerary was calling, we still had to get to Cortona, and then on to Arrezo and find our hotel for the night...
Before leaving, Pier managed to talk us into a dessert, which neither of us really wanted, it was just easier to say yes to him, we had a tiramisu which we shared, and I had a cup of espresso to wake me up ready for the drive ahead.
You can visit this restaurants web site: www.borgobuio.it
Well sometimes at sea, actually mostly at sea, then sometimes on land, and sometimes at the barn playing with the horses, traveling through Europe, painting, writing, cooking yummy dishes, and trying out new recipes, entertaining all my much appreciated readers with my adventures through travel and gastronomic delights... My blog is dedicated to my wonderful family and friends, who faithfully follow all my adventures and other nonsense.
Very good.
ReplyDeleteWonderful description of an exquisite experience, Heather! This was defintiely one of the top 5 highlights of our trip!
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